The 'B' Word
Welcome to the 23rd edition of ‘The B Word’, a newsletter for everyone who loves Barcelona. Whether you live here, are planning on living here, are visiting or are simply a fan of the city, I’m sure you’ll find lots here to interest you.
This newsletter is compiled by Esme Fox, a Barcelona-based freelance journalist. If you love 'The B Word' please show your support by
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Welcome, Bienvenidos and Benvinguts to all new and regular subscribers of The 'B' Word.
First of all, I want to let you all know that I'm moving this newsletter over to Substack. There's nothing you need to do, subscribers will be automatically moved over. It just means future editions will come via Substack instead of Mailchimp.
In this week's newsletter I'm looking at Barcelona's Chinese connection, ahead of Chinese New Year in just over a week's time on January 29. And the city's celebration will take place even sooner on January 25.
According to the Institute of Catalan Statistics, Chinese people make up the fourth biggest group of foreigners in Barcelona, behind the Italians, Colombians and Pakistanis with around 20,000 residents.
Back in 1990, there were just under 400 Chinese residents in Barcelona, but this number grew quickly. Specifically after the Barcelona '92 Olympics many were attracted to come and settle here. A big percentage of the Chinese population in Barcelona and Catalonia come from the Zhejiang province, just south of Shanghai.
While there’s no official China Town in Barcelona, most Barcelona residents will be aware that the area around Arc de Triomf, Fort Penic and Passeig Sant Joan has become somewhat of an unofficial one, with many Chinese businesses from supermarkets and bubble tea shops to restaurants, a bank and even Chinese hairdressers.
In fact, over the last few years, it has been attracting many other Asian businesses too, such as Japanese comic stores and ramen noodle bars, and during the festive season, Passeig Sant Joan even has Japanese manga-style Christmas lights.
This year, 2025, is the year of the Wood Snake and according to experts, it signifies a time of transformation, growth and introspection. Barcelona will be hosting a New Year parade to celebrate complete with dragon and lion dances which will take place at 11am from the Parc de l'Estació de Nord to the Arc de Triomf, then from midday there will be various Chinese cultural performances in front of the Arc. This typically includes dancing, singing and martial arts.
The first Chinese restaurant in Barcelona was called El Gran Dragón, and was opened in 1958 by Father Peter Yang who was a priest. Today there are many more places you get can your Chinese fix, and not just traditional restaurants either. I have been lucky enough to visit China several times and really love the cuisine. Here are some of my favourite authentic Chinese spots in the city.
Chinese Tofu Magician
If you love bubble tea, then you're sure to love this as it's even better. A drink made from tofu may not sound great, but it's actually delicious and so creamy. Order the soy milk teas with dango - sticky rice dumplings placed on the top and sprinkled with roasted soya bean powder.
Tea House
This is the place to go if you're craving really good Chinese tea, of all different varieties from chrysanthemum to top quality pu-erh which ages like wine. They also have many exquisite-looking tea pots and delicate cups, as well as whisks for making Japanese-style matcha. The staff are very knowledgeable and can also help make suggestions if you want to try something new. They even offer traditional Chinese tea ceremonies for €5 in the back room, complete with a grand carved wooden table.
Baozi Bar
This great low-key bar serves delicious homemade baozi steamed buns. They offer just a few flavours, including a vegetarian one, but they're really fresh what's more it's only around €5.50 for eight buns.
Yuanlaosi
I first tried hot pot on a crazy road trip from Beijing to the Hanging Monastery in Datong. A journey that should have taken around five hours took around two days, but both the monastery and the hot pot made it worthwhile. The closest hot pot I've found in Barcelona to the one I had that night is at Yuanlaosi, which also has incredible decor, that makes you feel like you're actually in China.
Business Hot Spot
Bloom by Sasha
For the past few years now I have been trying to eat gluten free as much as possible. Thankfully there are quite a few good places now in Barcelona that offer options without gluten, but really good gluten-free cakes are still not that common. Bloome by Sasha is the exception. Not only do they offer some of the best gluten-free cakes in Barcelona, but some of the best cakes full stop. You won't even be able to tell they're any different. The carrot cake and the apple crumble cake are especially delicious, but they also do classic brunches like smashed avocado toast (pictured) with gluten-free bread. They now have three branches across the city.
What's On
There's always something going on in Barcelona. Check out the events this week.
Calçotada, Valls (Jan 26)
Each year the town of Valls near Tarragona holds a big calçot festival, dedicated to Catalonia's most loved vegetable. The day features watching huge piles of calçots being grilled over hot charcoals, calçot eating competitions, romesco sauce-making contests, giant dancing calçots and a communal calçotada menu in the centre of the town.
Flamenkat (Jan 19)
On at the Palau de la Música, Flamenkat is a performance specifically directed at families and aims to bring flamenco to a new generation. It combines traditional styles such as soleá, martinete and bulería, with works by composers such as Falla, Albéniz and Tárrega.
La Porkada del Clot (Jan 18)
Organised by the correfoc group Diables del Clot, this Barcelona barrio pays homage to Sant Antoni Abat, patron saint of domestic animals, with a big barbecue. Starting from 11am in the Plaça del Mercat del Clot, there will also be live music, workshops for kids and of course lots of fire with the traditional correfoc.
Catalan Phrase of the Day
Any Nou Xinès - Chinese New Year
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